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Komply Clothing is the UK based hip hop t-shirt company run by Steve Hunt who writes ProHipHop's Komply column. He now has a U.S. based manufacturer and distributor meaning his shirts are available for a reasonable sum in U.S. currency. Check 'em out!
Komply: a Guest Column written by Steve Hunt of Komply Clothing.
It's hard, this conscious Hip Hop business, isn't it? You desperately want to keep it real, yet you have a public perception to maintain. Tricky.
Now, outside of this clothing company lark I have a day job; a day job lucky enough to centre around the videogames industry. Outside of the myriad of street, and by 'street' I think what is meant is 'hiphop influenced gangster' games being hawked at E3 this year (E3 is something like the Cannes of the game world), are two distinctly different takes on the Hip Hop world, both competing for your Hip Hop dollar.
Marc Ecko's Getting Up: Contents Under Pressure centres around the pursuit of creating that perfect piece of graffiti. It's like a Jet Set Radio crossed with Le Parkour (or free running if you prefer). With little in the way of guns and chainsaws in sight, the game seems respectful to a wonderful aspect of this culture of ours and appears very much like Mr Ecko's way of 'giving something back', whilst still attempting to cream in those important dollars.
Compare this to the opening, promo video of 50 Cent's new game, Bulletproof. 50, spouting some line about property, bursts through some nameless corporation's doors, shooting, punching and kicking his way through faceless suits like some sort of 'Punisher' type anti-hero.
I know what you're thinking now, 'cool!', but is it? Is it really?
I ran a little experiment on an Internet Hip Hop forum last week, to test out some new designs. Some Ecko inspired Graffiti styled shirts were liked, but you know which ones got the most positive feedback?
The ones with pictures of strippers, guns and the words 'Mother f*cker'.
Breaking down these pre-conceptions and perceptions of Hip Hop is going to be a lot harder than I had thought. Especially when our major 'voices' insist on playing up to them at every dollar-making opportunity.
Check back for Steve Hunt's column via the Komply link in the top left hand column. You can badger Steve directly at:
steve.hunt(at)komply(dot)com
Komply: a Guest Column written by Steve Hunt of Komply Clothing.
I've never really mentioned the process of getting the business launched before and if I were to write this column correctly, I really should have spent some time outlining the process of getting things off of the ground. So, after a forced absence, and whilst we're getting the house in order, let's start from the beginning.
Running a t-shirt company online is really not a new idea; let's be honest. Every man, woman and dog has a t-shirt company somewhere within their portfolio of friends or family. It's like the six-degrees of Fruit of the Loom. But the premise behind Komply (and its soon to be launched sister sites) is ever-so-slightly different. A difference that made us want to start the company in the first place, and something that really made doing 'another' t-shirt/clothing company a viable option for us. But it's that difference that has caused some of the biggest problems over here in Komply towers.
Banks need business plans. They love them like their livelyhoods depend upon them (which of course they do), so any business plan you present to the bank needs to feel tight and correct. They usually involve lots of talk and figures outlining projections, overheads and costs etc; the only problem with ours, is that ours included none of these things.
Due to the power of 'social' networking (not the cat-5 ethernet type), something we loosely touched upon last time, we managed to secure pretty much everything we needed to start up for free. We had no need to invest in the usual computer infrastructure, because friends of ours who run those type of companies offered it all for free (in return for favours of various degrees, naturally); we had no need to invest in coders and designers, because that's what we do with our day jobs, and even through the location of a wonderful and trusting set of printers, we don't even need to pay for any of our stock upfront (it's printed on demand).
Which is all wonderful. Except you try telling a bank you want to open an account for a business that has no overheads at all, no stock and without launching and getting some advertising done (in a guerilla-internet stylee: i.e. writing columns on blogs, getting affiliate deals with well-known hiphop sites etc) no possible way of projecting possible sales? It's not as easy as it looks believe me.
People still don't really understand the Internet and the power that it has to re-write rules; and this can really become a problem. Remember all of those high-powered site launches during the mid-nineties, most of which have long since fallen by the wayside? The people behind those sites invested millions in staff members, wonderful riverside offices and systems written by consultants, but most of the people involved with these companies ended up with nothing to show for all of this investment. Sure, the investors and CEO's all did well out of it, but this [to me] wasn't what business on the Internet was all about.
An old company I worked for used to have one, solitary aim; and that was for it all to be operated out of the boss's frontroom, whilst sat on a laptop wearing nothing but pyjamas. And you know what? That guy who ran that made it. He knew that the Internet enabled anyone to open up a store or a site on an equal footing to even the biggest retailers, and he knew that the best way to compete with these stores was to not even bother. The promise of the Internet is not to make millions; a few people have managed it mind you, but for my ex-boss it was about improving the quality of his life, making enough to be happy and getting his closest circle of friends connected with their respected circle of friends and so on, until everyone he knew was happy. And he did this all with an equally preposterous business plan.
And that's where we go back to Komply. Since the site has been launched it's all been pretty organic in turns of growth. A few mentions on one site, leads to a few more sales and mentions somewhere else. But some people still feel suspicious, they wonder why I'm not arranging for full-colour spreads in magazines, articles in the trendy fashion press and spending large amounts on building up the 'brand'; all stuff that the bank has also asked me about (and encouraged me to loan money out to achieve).
To me the answer is simple. Contrary to everyone else within this industry of ours, I don't want to build large and fast, I've seen too many companies (and people) implode this way. Organic is fine for me thanks. The Internet means that I have made some wonderful contacts who can afford me the time and indulgence to just take things slow. Sure it's perhaps more hard work for little in return to begin with, but I'd prefer to have my house in order before it all gets carried away with itself.
The next step in the plan is the launch of our US ($) priced shop. This is only a few weeks away. But until then, we'll just 'let our sh*t bubble quietly, and then we'll blow!'.
In the meantime, (when not at my dayjob paying the mortage), I'll be at home in my pyjamas!
Check back for Steve Hunt's column via the Komply link in the top left hand column. You can badger Steve directly at:
steve.hunt(at)komply(dot)com
A Guest Column by Steve Hunt of Komply Clothing
So here I was drafting a little piece about the power of networking, and how winning friends and influencing individuals is just as important as marketing your product to the masses, when the press shots of Kimora Lee Simmons' Sony PSP abhorrence flashed through my inbox.
Now, I don't know how many of you are lucky enough to own one of these marvelous feats of technology, but you probably don't need me to tell you that it is a truly beautiful machine. The Nintendo DS may have the edge in terms of 'originality' right now, but the ostentatious luxury of the PSP's screen and it's sleek, black stylings; boy, this is one gorgeous piece of kit.
So why? Oh why, did Kimora Lee Simmons have to go and do that to the machine? It's just a monstrosity. As I understand it, various 'designers' were asked to create custom accessories for the machine, which would then be displayed as 'one-offs' alongside the 'show and tell' event that Sony PR had instigated for introducing the machine to the glitterati who were present. Which no matter what you think of the reasoning behind it, sounds like it was a pretty cool way of getting your product into the hands of the populist elite.
But conversely, it was also a great way for designers to showcase their talents and to really show off just what they can do with any project.
Hmm... So what to do with the already beautiful PSP?
"Oh, you know what? I'm a 'hiphop' clothing type, so already it's pretty obvious isn't it? I'll just wack some gold and diamonds on it! That'll do".
Where did she summon that inspiration up from? That must have caused some sleepless nights in the Simmons household. I mean, trying to determine to cover it in either gold or graffiti must have been the creation of a headache from hell.
What we had here was an opportunity on two levels. First and foremost, there was an opportunity to pay some kudos to what it is that designers do; to be fun, functional and fashionable. This would have garnered some respect from her peers and respect from her audience as well; there is a reason why people prefer the sleek, white lines of the iPod over the 'other' portable audio players out there, and we as consumers know what this is. Plus this would also have been the perfect chance to show her work to an audience of other high-profile dignitaries, and who knows? To perhaps extend the reach of the company outside of its existing market.
But secondly, and in no way less importantly, there was an opportunity to show the 'outside' world that Hip Hop fashion is not just about money, violence or 'urban degradation'; to show that it's about versatility, vitality and creativity. There was a chance to begin chipping away at the myth of 'bling' and ill-judged, 'aspirational' luxury, and to show just what Hip Hop is all about.
But then I guess that would have taken some creativity and inspiration?
[I think] what I am trying to say here is that networking is not just about meeting people and hustling your way through connections to get to deals. It's more about the need to demonstrate your abilities to an audience as an individual as well as through your company 'face'. It's really about winning friends and inspiring or reacting to your peers, much in the way this blog of Clyde's does. ProHipHop (and by proxy my column within it) is a way of networking our beliefs and slant on things to the outside world. Sure, you may not agree with my statements, but I'm hoping that out there a few of you will. And who knows, you may be just the people I need to help make my product great. And well, if in turn that helps stop the rot of 'slackness' within our industry, then we're all winners aren't we?
Next week: how to not upset people with your sometimes abrasive tone (every individual is an opportunity).
Check back for Steve Hunt's column via the Komply category in Categories. You can contact Steve directly at:
steve.hunt(at)komply(dot)com
I'm happy to say ProHipHop has a guest columnist, Steve Hunt, who will be writing about his experiences starting a hip hop t-shirt company that I think he hopes to take much further than t-shirts. But we'll find out as he shares his process of learning, that is, if he really can pull off holding down a demanding job, supporting a start-up and gracing us with his presence.
His first column which follows, 'Hip Hop Fashion' is a Misnomer, is partly a response to my earlier posts, Hip Hop Fashions Are Boring and a follow-up. But it's also clearly a position paper for Steve, a former fashion student who's getting back into the game with his new company Komply Clothing.
To keep up with Steve's adventures, check the Komply category in Categories. You can contact Steve directly at steve.hunt(at)komply(dot)com.
A Guest Column by Steve Hunt of Komply Clothing
'Hip Hop' as a fashion has remained largely stagnant over these past ten, maybe even fifteen years. Ask anyone to describe to you their ideal of a `hip hopper' and after they have mentioned guns and chains, they'll probably start talking to you about sneakers (or trainers for the British amongst us such as myself) and baseball caps. Oh, and leisure/track suits. This recurring theme of sportswear, or now more commonly branded as `street' wear has been played, season after season by the sports companies themselves (obviously) but more importantly by other `fashion' labels to much financial success.
But what are the effects upon those of us who actually live this culture? How does this marketing of `us' benefit the progression of a music, and it's cultural attachments? We used to be known as trend-setters, as people who had little, so worked with what was around us. The very notion of Hip Hop itself is something born out of nothing but a borrowed break-beat and some DIY mic skills. And this used to be the same for our fashions too.
But now Hip Hop is a global business. Worth billions of dollars, this industry has become quickly self-referential. Those who have appropriated it for their own ends, the people responsible for the ostentatious furry, ghetto-fabulous schtick looks of a few years ago; Gucci, Chanel et al, as well as the preppy Tommy Hilfiger look that was adopted by `us' and then regurgitated back as quickly as they could throw it at us, have been quick to jump on, and glorify a culture that could bring back life and excitement into their own collections. These influences themselves, have in turn now been adopted in the latest collections from Phat Farm, Sean John and the myriad of other `urban'* labels popping up around us.
Which is great and all, honest, it really is. Anything that expands the reach of this music, and the worldwide phenomenon that is Hip Hop culture has to be good. But a part of me can't help but feel it's all a little too inward-facing. We're essentially regurgitating the styles of people who regurgitated our style to start with. Where's the progression? Where's the risk? Where's the growth?
Of course, the more erudite would be able to make the argument that this is simply running in parallel to the state of hip hop music today. The 'bling' and b*tches attitude still rules the land of `urban' music (you only have to watch any XXX version, music video to see that although less violent, this is more misogynistic as ever), and what with our 'glorious tabloid leader' 50 cent being nothing but a caricature of himself these days, the clothes that he wears, and other people aspire to wearing will only reflect this.
So what happens to the trend-setters? Where's the sense of excitement and wonder that we as hip hoppers used to revel in?
Who in this day and age is going to seriously raid their grand mothers hat closet, and rock outside in broad daylight wearing her white, fluffy hat? Kangol wasn't the least bit 'hip hop' until someone had the guts to just mess about with their nanas' threads.
But nowadays we all look the same. and not in a form of, 'look at him in shiny toe-capped boots and dark, black eye-liner! He's a goth just like me' solidarity. No, now EVERYbody just looks like everyone else. We all look like each other; hip hop, house, pop, R & B, rock, ad infinitum. These big brands have taken what we had and just set-up shop selling the same stuff back to us year after year. Take me for an example, I dress no different now than I did 15 years ago, in my Jordans and NY Yankees cap. And I'm bloody British for gawds sake, I don't even understand Baseball or Basketball!
Of course there will always be room for sneakers, caps and even the odd 'ghetto' inspired fur coat or pimp-juice cup. Hell, even leisure suits are ok with me. But where's the sense of belonging that helped to develop our culture's style and attitude? Where's the daring?
Where's the fun?
Now, I know a few single-coloured print t-shirts isn't going to change the world. But you know what? I really think the time is right for someone to shake this game up a little. Break us out of the artist/label owned clothes lines that seem intent on pushing us down the same old avenues. Mark Ecko continues to nudge at the limits of this year after year, and I can't offer the man enough respect, for doing what he does so well. I only wish someone else was there to offer him a little competitive encouragement, to help him not nudge, but blast his way through these boundaries.
Over the next few weeks/months (or even days, depending on how long it takes for me to go bust!) I'm going to be residing here, writing about my experiences in setting up my own label. I don't know where it's going to take me, and I have a day job and family to keep running in the mean time, but I think it's going to be fun. Who knows, together maybe we could change the game?
* I need to make this clear, but I hate 'urban' as a term. I only use it here as an ironic statement with regards to how we get labeled and pigeon-holed these days.
[Steve Hunt recently started Komply Clothing and will be periodically sharing the process of building a small business. Check back for his column in the Komply category in Categories. You can contact Steve directly at steve.hunt(at)komply(dot)com.]
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